New this season, among other things, is a wonderful fresh selection of dishes from Tokyo. Closely related to my food obsession is a dish addiction. Ever since the crash of my kitchen cabinets 30 years ago liberated me from my matched KPM white porcelain (the double-handled soup bowls and saucers survived), I have felt free to buy at least 10 of every dish that I find beautiful and functional. Japan is perfect for this search, since dishes of all sizes and shapes are sold and used independently. So one can imagine setting a table in every conceivable variety of blue and white — with cups, salad plates, serving bowls, butter and sauce dishes, berry plates, and occasionally dinner size plates as well. Then one can add plain white in every variety; perhaps add a bit of red, or gold.

Re-imagining how and what to serve can follow. For example, a variety of forms and shapes of plates in brown stonewares can be used to serve snacks before dinner — olives, nuts, cheeses, crackers. I could go on.... So once a year I go hunting in Tokyo and Kyoto for attractive dishes. Of course one can find beautiful and very expensive tea bowls, flower arranging containers, and sets of plates (in fives) made by well-known potters; but these are difficult to sell, and I consequently buy carefully. Equally satisfying is to sort through thousands of possibilities available in the restaurant-supply neighborhood. Fifi and I are experts at doing this, and we take great pleasure in scanning the shelves there. You will see our choices under “at home” above, or in your Holiday mailer. Bon Apetit!